Sustainable Traveler's Guide to Belgrade
Belgrade is a city that really surprised me. I went in knowing literally nothing. And realized pretty much immediately upon arriving that it had alot to offer. And it was actually a really nice, livable city.
Not only does it have a lot of history and heritage sites, but lots of great restaurants, fun nightlife, and lovely green areas and parks as well- it really has something to offer to anyone visiting.
After traveling in Romania beforehand, I was prepared for most people to not speak English. But I was pleasantly surprised in Belgrade. I found the level of English there to be very high - and the locals are some of the friendliest people I've ever met as well. Even if they didn’t speak perfect English, they were open to speaking to you and keeping when and where they could!
Most menus had English translations as well - I only encountered a few stands that only had menus in Serbian. And in most cases the person working there spoke English and could translate (there was only one stand I encountered that didn’t have English translation and couldn’t help translate herself).
While it's not easy to have a fully sustainable holiday while in Belgrade, it's definitely possible to make more sustainable choices in terms of where to stay, where to eat, how to travel and so on - so read the guide below if you want to get a nice preview into the Belgrade life before going on the adventure of your lifetime.
Where to stay?
If you are looking for sustainable accommodation in Belgrade, you may be a bit disappointed, as eco-tourism is not as developed in Serbia as in other European countries. Still, there are plenty of ways to keep your holiday as environmentally friendly as possible - I recommend staying away from international hotel chains and opting for the locally owned ones or renting a private apartment somewhere near the city centre (there are plenty of good options on Airbnb!)
We stayed in a very cute Airbnb right on Bohemian street in the middle of the action. If you want to check it out - I’ll link it here. Price was very affordable and the host, Ivy, was super sweet too!
Another cool hidden gem is the ArkaBarka Floating Hostel - here you can rent a room that is literally floating on the Danube River, with an included breakfast which you can enjoy on the terrace with a beautiful river view. They also offer a free bike rental service so you can explore the city at your own leisure, away from the noise and pollution of cars.
Palace Hotel is another great option for people who want to feel like royalty even on a tight budget. The hotel is famous for its bohemian decor, and a fine dining restaurant with an amazing river view and evening musical programmes.
If you're looking to get away from the bustling city life and experience the traditional countryside Serbian lifestyle, you can also rent a room in a traditional ethno house, like the Zornića Kuća ethno household, located a few km away from Belgrade. The house has a garden with a stunning mountain view, where you can drink locally made coffee under the 200-year-old oak tree growing there. This one is actually pretty sustainable as well: all food is organic and locally sourced, and the owners save up lots of rainwater to reuse for various purposes!
What to visit?
One thing that Belgrade is well-known for is the historical monuments you can visit around the city centre.
The Belgrade Fortress (also known as Kalemegdan) is possibly the most important landmark to see in the city. Not only is it free entry to go inside, but it is also surrounded by many parks making it a great place to spend a good part of your day. The building itself has had a long history of architectural changes, so you'll be able to see all these different historical influences beautifully coexisting into one structure. I really enjoyed being able to run through the parks and fortress each morning….it’s incredibly pleasant!
Another breath-taking historical monument is the Cathedral of Saint Sava, one of the biggest Orthodox Churches in the entire world, built on top of a hill with a great city view.
While in Belgrade, you must take a turn about Skadarlija, the oldest part of the town full of bohemian architecture, street artists, cobblestone streets and many, many traditional restaurants called Kafana - this is where you'll truly get a feel of the city and its locals, and absolutely fall in love with its colourful culture.
The central part of the city is called the Republic Square, and here you have plenty of sightseeing to do it you're interested - you can see the statue of Prince Mihailo III, the National Theatre or the National Museum. This is also where the most crowded commercial street of Belgrade (named Knez Mihailova) starts - and there’s great shopping around there as well.
Where to eat/drink?
There are very few places around the world where the food and drinks were as tasty, fun, and affordable as in Belgrade. Almost every street will have lots of cafes and restaurants, serving local food at amazingly affordable prices. You can get a meal for as little as 5 Euros, but you can also splurge out on some fancier options at one of the international restaurant chains in the area.
Kafanas will be your best friend when it comes to affordable food, but also a lively, cheerful atmosphere. Sesir Moj is one of the best Kafanas in the city, with its live music nights and local food. The fact that most food in Belgrade is locally sourced and organic means that there is less waste created all year round, so you can enjoy tasty meals without the guilt of harming the environment.
The best way to get through to the locals, however, is with a good drink. And there is no better drink around here than Rakia - you can go to a place like Rakia Bar to learn more about the history and making process of this national drink, and also try many types of Rakia with snacks. This is not for the faint-hearted, however, as Rakia can be quite strong - make sure you eat well before trying!
Karadjordjeva Schnitzel, a specialty here in Serbia, is also a must-try (although not exactly a light meal haha). It is a rolled pork or veal cutlet stuffed with cheese and then breaded and fried. The city centre is also full of traditional bakeries - a freshly baked dessert here will warm your hands and your heart.
What about nightlife?
Honestly, when it comes to nightlife, Belgrade really delivers - club fees and drinks are extremely affordable, and chances are there will be plenty of DJ or live music parties at some of the local clubs most nights. If you're a fan of lively nights out, meeting people from all over the world and making memories, then summer is the best time to visit Belgrade.
One of the most popular spots to party is to head over to the Splavs (which are basically club barges on the Sava riverfront). Each club is going to have a different vibe and different music….so just head to the area and party hop until you find one that is your speed. Some of the clubs are also restaurants during the day, so if you aren’t looking for a super rowdy party, that may be the way to go. To get to the area, just tell the taxi driver to take you to FreeStyler (that’s one of the oldest / most well known clubs in the strip).
Another cool area with a number of bars to choose from is Cetinjska 15 - there’s an old beer factory that has been converted into a number of hip, trendy drinking venues. None of the bars serve food, although there is a small pizza shop in the area if you get hungry.
Belgrade also has a bustling cocktail bar scene - one of my favorites was Central Bar - where you let the bartender know your favorite liquors and taste profile and they’ll come up with a custom drink for you! Or there are many speakeasies to choose from as well - we loved Belgrade Cocktail Club - it’s tiny but good vibes, or there is Druid (sadly we couldn't make it there as it was closed when we were in town….but heard great things!)
Another great spot is Miners Pub, popular for its great drinks and fun activities. You can drink anything from craft beer to wine and even Rakia and play table football or darts with your friends. The music varies from jazz to alternative, but you're guaranteed to love the atmosphere no matter what.
Belgrade is also an extremely safe city. Numerous local women told me they had walked him on various occasions at like 4am, and never had any trouble. Always a good thing to hear as a girl! Although, I do always recommend that travelers stay mindful of their surroundings and be smart.
What to do around Belgrade?
One of the most amazing parts about Belgrade is the free walking tours organised daily around the city centre. You don't need to sign up or pay anything, just read about the meeting point, show up, and go on a walking journey through history guided by locals! Anyone can join these tours so expect to make a few friends as well.
Even more, from Wednesday to Saturday you can also join locally organised pub crawls, with friends or even by yourself (since you'll get to meet loads of fun people anyway!).
Or spend an evening doing a sunset cruise on the water. We had a wonderful time with Cruising Belgrade - small boat for an intimate experience and our host was extremely generous with the wine…our glasses were never empty haha.
Belgrade is also quite famous for its numerous festivals, so if any spark your interest, you may consider scheduling your holiday around that time. The Belgrade International Theatre Festival is usually hosted sometime in mid-September, while most others (e.g. the Belgrade Dance Festival, the Supernatural Festival or the Resonate Music Festival) are hosted in spring. The Night of the Museums is also worthwhile, as one night a year (usually in May) every museum is open for you to visit.
As I mentioned before, eco-tourism is not particularly developed in Serbia, so the best way for you to have a truly sustainable holiday here is by empowering the local communities and learning about culture and history, as well as being respectful of local traditions.
How to move around?
Cars are always a big no-no during any sustainable holiday no matter where you go. It's true that sometimes you may not have a choice, but the good news is that Belgrade offers plenty of alternatives! (They don’t have uber there, so getting a car/taxi was a bit tough….so all the more reason to walk or bike ride!)
The city has really improved its public transport systems over the years, and now you have many different ways of moving around including buses, trams, trolleybuses as well as S-trains. They try to promote the usage of public transportation to reduce car pollution and traffic, which makes for a much more enjoyable experience when visiting the city.
Bikes are always an option, as well as simply walking around places.
Hopefully Belgrade will win over your heart like it did over mine – don’t be afraid to try new things and you’ll definitely have the holiday of your lifetime!