My 2 Day Trek with Sapa Sisters & Little Zo (Vietnam)

Four years ago, I was researching Vietnam for my first visit and came across a company called Sapa Sisters in the Lonely Planet book. I didn’t have time to do Northern Vietnam in my itinerary at the time, but the company’s mission stood out to me….and I bookmarked it in my memory for one day when I returned to Vietnam and did the North.

Sapa Sisters is one of the few business actually run by the H’mong (minority) people in the area – AND it is completely owned by and run by women. They make sure to pay all their guides fair, liveable wages – complete with benefits, maternity leave, etc. Many of the women are actually the sole breadwinners for their families. So you can see why it was of interest!

Fast forward to this August – as I was making plans to return to Vietnam, I looked up Sapa Sisters to see if they were still around and how the reviews looked. The reviews were wonderful, so then I started investigating the prices.

I quickly realized their treks were quite a bit more expensive than other trek tours. But the reviews were so good, and I reminded myself that these fees help pay the women guides benefits and I booked it.

The Sapa Sisters team was in touch immediately and wonderful from the start in helping me get all set up for my trek. I also had them book my sleeper trains & transport to Sapa from the train station as well. From giving detailed directions on where to go for the train, to showing up to their office and being greeted warmly and shown to breakfast….it was all very well managed and seamless. I was informed my guide would be Little Zo (all Sapa Sisters hikes are private / you go with your own guide).

Coming straight from the sleeper train, I thought I’d have to just go dirty my first day of trekking. But no, they had a plan for that as well. After breakfast, we were given the opportunity to shower at the Sapa Sisters office (felt great!). After showering, I was introduced to my guide, Little Zo, and we pretty much immediately took off.

As we walked, she invited me to ask her anything I wanted about her life and Sapa. She told me that she lived in a small village that you can reach doing the 3 day hike (I was doing the 2 day). She was married, had a 1 year old daughter, and was the primary breadwinner for her family. She looked SO young, although was probably in her 20s since she mentioned having been a guide for 4 years.

She also told me that she trekked right up until the day before she gave birth! Crazy! She gave birth at home, like most people did if there weren’t complications – as the nearest hospital was in town about 30 minutes by motorbike.

At one point, I asked her if she had any interest in going to Hanoi (about 5 hours from Sapa) and she did not. She said she liked it here.

When I asked her about what she typically ate for meals – she replied steamed white rice! Do you ever get tired of that? No, we LOVE rice – she commented with a smile.

Zo was so at peace in the mountains – so connected to her surroundings. She never missed a beat on the track (even though I found myself struggling at certain moments!) We’d be walking and she’d just pluck a branch of leaves from a tree and braid it into an exquisite crown. Or whip a knife out of her pocket to cut a plant down and then show me how to turn it into indigo dye.

It is such a different way of living from my fast-paced, city life. But she seemed so calm, happy - satisfied. It’s easy to think of ourselves as the fortunate ones…but most people I know spend 50+ hours a week at a job they only sort of like, are often stressed out, exhausted, and over-medicated. So who’s to say what’s better?

Wearing the crown Zo made for me out of a branch of leaves….that we then picked wild flowers to add to.

We often feel awkward when we aren’t talking with people we just met – quickly jumping to fill the silence. But not Zo. She seemed perfectly fine with talking or not talking.

Most of the time, Zo was serious in nature, but every once in a while would come in with a joke that had me laughing out loud.

After about 5 hours of hiking, we arrived at the homestay. We weren’t able to stay in the Sapa Sisters house since it was completely full – so myself, Zo, a cool girl from the states who I had hung out with on the train (& throughout the day as we met at rest stops), two Italian guys, and their guides were at a neighbors house.

The foreigners all hung out watching the sunset, relaxing, chatting that afternoon. While Zo pulled up a chair and started knitting (she was working on a dress). Anytime we stopped during the hike, she would pull out her craft and start working on it. She said it would take her about 2 months to finish (she made all her own clothes for herself, her husband and daughter – since they were expensive to buy).

This girl’s work ethic was amazing! (You saw this all around with the guides & porters….they were ALL working on another project….some even WHILE we were trekking, their hands were crafting).

All the tourists, guides, and family came together for dinner. There were a number of delicious vegetable sides, an amazing tofu dish, chicken, spring rolls, etc. As we were all gourging ourselves, I noticed that Zo just stuck to plain steamed rice – which she added water to.

She really was serious about loving steamed rice for every meal…

The homestay house had a very open floor plan….there wasn’t a front door or really any doors. Anyone could have just walked in and took their TV, appliances, clothes, etc. Only the bedrooms had doors and 4 walls.

I was worried about sleeping because the host family was having guests over when we retired (at 8PM lol). But thankfully the trek had me so incredibly exhausted that I fell right asleep. I woke up around 6 or 7am. It was so utterly quiet and peaceful. I went and sat outside on the patio.

Finally the others appeared around 8am, we had breakfast and then all set out on our hikes with our guides.

Day 2 went by so quickly. The first day, we’d had a porter with us (not actually sure if she was paid to be there or if she was just hoping to sell me something….which she of course succeeded at because I’m a sap). But day 2 was just us.

I had heard from people that Sapa was “so crowded” and overrun with tourists, but that wasn’t my experience at all. There were hours when we didn’t see anyone else at all. Just Zo and me in the rice fields….occasionally passing someone cutting crops or kids playing.

I loved everything about Sapa. Well everything except that there were little girls selling stuff that were really aggressive and wouldn’t leave you alone (especially at lunch). There were signs up in the Sapa Sisters office telling you that you would need to be the one to tell them no thank you, because the guides are often related to them or family friends and it can cause problems for them later if they ask them to leave. But the little girls didn’t listen and you’d often have to continually tell them you didn’t want to buy anything for 10 minutes on repeat or just flat out ignore them (which is heartbreaking) before they finally left. Well for a little while that is.

When we made it to lunch on the 2nd day, I was shocked to realize that our trek was already over! And we would be returning to Sapa town via motorbike. I was not ready to go home….I had more hiking left in me.

We were given the choice between riding in a car back or going via motorbike. I selected motorbike. Zo’s [dutiful] husband and a friend arrived to take us back to Sapa. She on the back of her husband’s bike and me on the back of the friend’s. It was a lovely ride. I didn’t want it to end.

We eventually made it back though and I gave Zo a nice tip, she looked so happy and asked if I was sure [I don’t think they expect tips]. I was definitely sure. I loved my tour. It’s know it’s something I will remember forever….my first trip to Sapa.

And of course, I’ll remember Zo too.….wondering what she’s up to. If she’s finally finishing knitting that dress or pregnant with baby #2 and trekking right up until her due date. And send good wishes her way.